A Basic Guide to Wine Made Naturally
Here's the basic skinny on sustainable, natural, organic, low-intervention and naturally made wine secondo me.
A Basic Guide to Wine Made Naturally
You already know the basics. Grapes grow on vines and vines have an interesting way of growing in some of the most diverse places around the world; from the sandy soils of the Greek Islands to the steep terraced slops of Mosel, Germany to very fertile soils like the volcanic soils at the base of Mt. Etna in Sicily to the infamous valley floor in Napa Valley. They do not require a lot of water, or fertile soil. Grapes are grown worldwide, but mainly between 30–50–degree latitude in the North and Southern Hemisphere. Wine is not a natural byproduct of nature, but there is a way wine can be made naturally! You all may be familiar with the concept of conventional agriculture. As the global population began to grow-specifically after WW2, the demand for food also grew. Farmers began relying on artificial fertilizers to increase yields and protect crops against disease, ensuring the demands were met. Now we are in a crisis, conventional large-scale farming with a reliance on synthetic chemicals has not only stripped large areas of land from their natural processes, but it has also diminished biodiversity and soil health. The same problems that exist in the agriculture sector also exist in the wine production sector.
The wine industry is facing many obstacles. Adverse effects of climate change including rising temperatures, dramatic weather events, soil erosion and heavy rainfall are negatively impacting vineyards worldwide. While sustainable wine production lacks a concrete description, adopting more sustainable wine production methods can increase health in the vineyard and lead to creating a more stable wine industry all around. The demand is growing for more sustainable choices, regarding natural wine, biodynamic wine, and organic wine (wine can be all three btw!) but with a lack of consistent definitions across all wine growing regions, consumers have truly little knowledge about which wines are in fact, responsible products. I believe that transitioning to a more natural style of winemaking (whether it is practicing organic farming, biodynamics in the vineyard or reducing waste and artificial additives at all stages of the winemaking process) is not only beneficial for the planet, but a financially viable option throughout every sector. With a lack of consistency in sustainable wine making practices, there is no efficient way to regulate these products in the marketplace. Wineries have an opportunity to make delicious wine that is both good for us and the planet. But before we start marketing everything as sustainable, let us first figure out what sustainability really means.
Defining Sustainability and Natural Wine Terms
What is the real meaning behind the word sustainability? Sustainability can be divided into three categories. Environmental, Economic and Social. To make things easier, I consider sustainable wine to be made with a focus on environmental sustainability with respect to economic and social sustainability standards. For some companies it has become a buzz word, a marketing term with no regulated definition. Therefore, using the term “sustainable” is susceptible to greenwashing.
Let us dive in and discuss definitions of terms regarding natural wine: regenerative agriculture, circular economy, organic, biodynamic, low intervention & natural.
Organic: Wine produced without chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or other artificial chemicals which mostly applies to the farming practices in the vineyard. There are also organic and inorganic yeasts used in the winemaking process. According to the USDA website organic wine and “wines made with organic grapes” have two different certification regulations. In wines “made with organic grapes” the yeast and other additives do not have to be organic.
Biodynamic: Holistic view of agriculture. Applies to the farming practices in the vineyard. Spiritual and homeopathic attitude on farming. Emphasis on natural regeneration without the use of chemical fertilizers and a focus on strengthening fertility in the soil by using natural (raw) ingredients.
Regenerative agriculture: Protecting the climate and earth’s natural resources by rebuilding healthy, organic soil, which helps sequester carbon and supports microorganisms in the soil. Providing more positives than negatives. Examples include composting, utilizing cover crops, and animal grazing.
Circular economy: Production cycles are connected to the waste cycles. Reusing, refurbishing, and recycling materials within a circular model. Examples include composting grape skins, reusing wine bottles, reusing barrels or other aging vessels year after year.
Natural: The most complicated definition yet! Natural farming techniques are usually associated with organic and/or biodynamic farming. As well as *natural fermentation processes in the cellar and fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts found on the surface of the grape skins or in the air. However, natural wine as a term usually means it is more extreme than low intervention, due to cultural influences, especially in the USA.
Wine can be made using just one of these practices or all of them! Some producers go all in or cherry pick which farming and production methods based on what is feasible for their business. Some certifications require a quantifiable number to prove they are farming organically or biodynamic. Some wineries have no certifications at all but practice these methods anyway because they believe it is the right thing to do not only for the wine but also for the land.
What’s the Deal With Yeasts and Sulfites?
Yeast has a key role in winemaking, it literally turns the fresh grape juice into wine. Yeast exists on the grape skins, in the air and in the laboratory. Winemakers can choose which type of yeasts they want to use in the fermentation process. Most of the producers I have met with told me that they use native yeast strains which naturally occur on the surface of the grapes. For conventional wineries, they want a consistent flavor profile and the promise that the wine will taste the same year after year, regardless of vintage, regardless of any changes in the vineyards. It is like making a flavored sports drink. That might be an extreme statement, but you see the point.
Sulfur and yeast are two of the most debated topics in the natural wine world. Sulfur is a natural element, and Sulfur dioxide naturally occurs in the winemaking process, but conventional wineries choose to use more sulfur than natural producers because sulfur dioxide also acts as a preservative. Sulfur and sulfites are not the thing wine consumers should be concerned about. Secondo me, it is one of the most natural additives allowed in wine. In short natural wine, contains grapes, naturally occurring yeasts, and sulfites (which occur naturally) and conventional wine is made much like processed food is made, with more ingredients and more industrial processes.
Why is the term natural wine so confusing ?
Natural wine falls into two camps: zero/zero which means zero sulfites added and zero commercial yeasts used in the winemaking process. Then there is wine that is not considered zero/zero and but still utilizes the same basic principles including: minimal or no additional sulfites added, native yeast strains used for fermentation and no additives used in the winemaking process. The term for these both types of wine is not regulated or even well-defined, but for all intents and purposes I refer to these wines as naturally made wine, sustainable wine or low-intervention wine. In my experience zero/zero wines taste more like vinegar than wine, while wine that has 30 ppm of sulfites (which translates to 30 milligrams per liter of wine) taste like the truest expression of wine without being a conventional wine. Conventional wine can have up to 350 ppm (mg/l) of sulfites, including a list of additives other than grapes which are permitted and often used in the winemaking process. Let’s clear something up about sulfites. Sulfites are not the main cause of headaches. There are sulfites in a many products we consume like jam, fruit juices, soda, and packaged bread. Headaches are usually caused by dehydration. With that said, I have been to many wine tastings, wine fairs and have enjoyed many bottles of natural wine at dinner parties and I do not experience a hangover or a residual groggy feeling the morning after. However, when I drink conventional wine, I often do.
Conventional winemaking contributes to climate change (more specifically global heating) in ways of mono-cropped vineyards, biodiversity loss, over consumption, and the exploitation of natural resources. Natural winemaking (whether supported through organic farming, biodynamics, or low-intervention agriculture) and its processes, aim to do just the opposite. In the vineyard, winemakers use a variety of cover crops like legumes, chamomile, arugula, and herbs to maintain moisture in the soil. The “greener” the vineyard has the more carbon sequestration is going on! Furthermore, with increasing droughts and less annual rainfall, maintaining soil moisture is key. Irrigation should only be done in an emergency. The goal is to build resiliency in the vineyard. Resiliency against drought, heavy rains, intense winds, and other extreme weather patterns that are byproducts of a changing climate. Winemakers want to be sure that cover-crops also help increase biodiversity. Biodiversity comes in the form of other plant species and animal species, each with a unique role that assists with the grape growing process. Natural wine production also relies on utilizing native grape varieties that eb and flow varying temperatures, soil types, weather patterns and amounts of sunshine in any given region.
A Sneak Peak into Sustainable Wine Packaging
Packaging is another dense topic in the realm of environmental sustainability. It is common knowledge that glass bottles have the potential to be recycled. The lifecycle of glass could be infinitely continuous. Melt it, shape it, fill it, empty it, recycle it and the process starts all over again. Unfortunately, the reality is not so efficient. Recycling initiatives not only vary from municipalities but proper recycling protocols are not being practiced by the average wine consumers. Additionally, sound infrastructure is not set up in every country to efficiently recycle and remake materials like glass bottles. Another major issue with glass is the weight. Transporting glass bottles from one country to another is becoming a real issue. There are a few bottle-buy back schemes in place in the US and in Europe and instead of using the glass bottles only one time and leaving them to be “recycled” companies are working with retailers, restaurants, and individuals to collect previously used wine bottles-send them to be cleaned, sanitized (while staying perfectly intact) and then redistributed to wineries to fill once again. This process would shorten the loop dramatically. This would be an example of a circular economy that could help alleviate the financial stresses of the winemaker.
Are you nervous? Don’t be! In a world full of processed food and conventional wine, there are also amazing artisan producers who are making a real difference by making authentic wine!
Ways We Can Support Wine Made Naturally!
A straightforward way is shifting away from conventional wine to more alternative wines. I am the first to understand that price is the first and most crucial factor when buying wine. But much like the food products I chose to consume, I know it is an investment for my health and for the health of the planet! When I choose wine, I want to support not only the sustainable wine industry, but also small producers, family-run businesses, and cool innovative people who share the same ethos about agriculture. Similar to fast fashion, if it’s priced cheap, it was probably made cheap…
So find a local wine shop! Small local wine shops tend to carry wines from producers who practice low-intervention and/or natural winemaking! These same producers often utilize native grape varieties, not always relying on the popular, mass-produced grapes which can lead to mono-cropped vineyards. If you don’t believe me on the sulfite thing, go buy a bottle of natural wine from a shop, and then go to your big-box grocery store and buy a wine made from the same grape (if you can even find it). Taste the difference for yourself!
There are only positive benefits to educating yourself in the world of natural wine. Secondo me, natural wine should not be talked about as a movement, but as an industry standard. Wine made naturally can be a catalyst for change if consumers begin to demand change through their purchasing habits. So, ask more questions, conduct more research, and choose wisely because the wine you drink is just as important as the water that you drink.
Tips and Tricks for Purchasing Sustainable Wine:
Go to a small wine shop.
Everything is online. Google “natural wine shops near me” it’s that easy.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions! People like me work at natural wine shops and we love to talk about wine.
If you live in a small suburb like my hometown, there are great natural wine shops online, in addition brick-and-mortar natural wine shops sometimes will ship as well.
Check out the back label.
A quick and easy tool is simply googling the winery. If the winery has a website or Instagram account where you can see what’s going on, it’s probably a good sign.
When the wine is imported look for Imbottigliato all’origine (Italian) or mis en bouteille au château/domaine (French) which means that wine was bottled on the property and usually implies a little more care and attention in the winemaking
A good rule or thumb is read your food and drink labels.
Follow natural winemakers on social media!
By following one or two natural wine producers, shops and or writers you can see more natural wine news through their posts, their stories, and their tagged photos.
Before you know it you’ll be following more and more profiles and learning more about natural wine.
P.S. Conventional wine is made to be consistent. Unfortunately, the climate is changing and grapes will grow in response the weather patterns, temperatures and natural processes of that year. Therefore flavors in wine cannot always be consistent. But that’s the beauty of it.