Field notes from behind the bar
Should I be bothered that the Somm is using AI?
So I used to work as a bartender at a one Michelin star restaurant. A few months ago the Sommelier position at this restaurant was filled by a server, who while rather novice in wine showed interest in taking on the responsibilities of the role. It’s a traditional role, they do inventory, suggest bottles on the floor and execute wine pairings. No buying, yet. While I was standing next to them at line-up one day, I saw an AI Overview of a classic wine region open on their phone. They were gathering information to share with the staff about a new wine going on the BTG list that evening. I knew this region very well. After you work in wine for 10 years, you get to know the major players without having to google. Seeing that the somm was relying on a reduced, computer-generated string of sentences, was disheartening. Why didn’t they just turn and ask me? (Someone who has worked in wine for over 10 years, and wrote her graduate thesis on sustainable wine production focused on the same low-intervention wines that make up the restaurant’s wine entire list.)
This isn’t written out of jealousy. I didn’t ask to be considered for the somm position. When I was in my early 20s (I am 32 now) I thought I wanted to follow the somm route. I even moved to Napa Valley to pursue it. But I quickly realized that being a somm meant memorizing legendary producers from baller regions and spouting tasting notes of wines I had never had and would never dream of paying for. I suffer from imposter syndrome and I felt as though a career as a somm would be a bit of cosplay.
But I have to ask myself, am I stunting my wine education by not using AI? I refuse to believe it, but I will admit, when it comes down to compiling key points for 90+ different bottles on a wine list (one of the duties as a somm) I’ll admit it is savvy to use AI platforms as a time/energy saving research method. It’s like using a education pressure cooker. Half the time, all the flavor, all of the basic facts.
But what will the somm to do when a guest asks a question at the table that they don’t know the answer to? Are they going to run back to the server station and ask AI for 2-3 sentences on the topic? Is there time during service to do that? Being a successful somm means being a walking Rolodex of wine knowledge. For better or worse, they are ambassadors of the industry and their words hold weight with the guests and staff. So what does it mean if the somm’s wine knowledge wasn’t acquired by their own research?
Perhaps it is a little bit of jealousy. At the risk of sounding childish, using AI to do your job feels unfair. But after 10 years of reading, writing, interviewing, traveling and even leading wine education courses all in pursuit of honing in my wine knowledge, I have to wonder, would an AI subscription have been cheaper?
I can’t ignore the fact that swag and attitude is 90 percent of the somm gig. A fitted jacket with crisp t-shirt underneath, matched with a pair of glasses and sharp haircut is not only the uniform, it’s a part of the guest experience. It’s all about demanding presence at the table, and creating a memorable narrative about each wine poured for the pairing, or the bottle selected for the meal. I would argue that talented wine writers also create memorable narratives, they just don’t have a nightly audience with whom to share those stories.
When it comes down to it, I am content with the path I chose, and the fact that ChatGPT has never graced my phone screen. Call me out-of-touch, but I honestly wouldn’t even know where to start. I feel personally validated that I spent my last year at this Michelin-starred restaurant in the service well1, putting away my hard-earned tips to finance, what I consider, an authentic wine education. (I.e. winery visits, books, magazine subscriptions, and lots and lots of glasses of wine enjoyed at wine bars & restaurants around the USA and Western Europe.)2
For new somms out there, I recommend putting down your phone and investing in these wine education resources instead.
Purchase the Slow Wine Guide, the annual guide published by Slow Food Editore. In the USA guide there are featured 400 wineries. In the Italian guide there are 2,000.
Follow the SevenFifty Daily for wine industry news, as well as Wine Business.
Follow wine writers on Instagram as they often share producer stories from their own trips. Many of the women I follow are not going on press trips, but funding their own endeavors and sharing their findings along the way. Drop your name in the comments so people can follow along!
Read Noble Rot, order back issues of Pipette, buy the new issue of Full Pour.
Listen to the Wine for Normal People podcast.
Go to your local bookstore and pick up a copy of The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil (the book is on its 3rd edition). Pick up a hard copy of Wine Folly and Wine Simple while you’re at it.
You cannot begin to discuss natural wine or the nuances between organic, biodynamic, and conventional winemaking without reading Alice Feiring’s books. Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop’s book, Authentic Wine is also a must read, as is Ian d’Agato’s book for all things Italian grapes and wine.
Wine memoirs like Rachel Signer’s You Had Me At Pét-Nat are great reads. I also loved Wine Girl by Victoria James and Cork Dork by Bianca Bosker. There is so much wine education in between the pages.
It’s not just about just the fermented juice in the bottle. In 2025 it is the somm’s duty to be well-versed in all aspects of the wine industry. Much like a chef must know the five mother sauces. So get cooking reading.
RE: Inquiry for Sommelier’s and wine writers out there - What are your thoughts on using AI to further your wine education?
Thank you for reading,
Tana from la tana
Postscript:
If you like what you read, PLEASE subscribe. Knowing that people are electively signing up to read my writing is the biggest compliment and encourages me to write more! If you are interested in reading more about my natural wine journey/journal, I have an entire section on my substack dedicated to them. Read more here.
The service well is essentially the kitchen of the bar, where all of the drinks for the dining room are made.
Don’t be mad at me. I would love to make it back to South America, or plan a trip to Australia, New Zealand or Eastern Europe. But I’ve been bartending for most of my adult life, it’s not in the cards financially, yet.
Tbh that's so sad. But eventually they'll replaced by someone even less experienced