Where to EAT, DRINK and WAIT for the train
in Bologna, Modena, Verona
In an effort to travel as cheap and efficiently as possible (while keeping my sanity) I often find myself waiting for the last train back to Rome. Why? because it’s usually the cheapest, and I see it as an excuse to experience a day away in a new city.
I am trying something new on here. I realize that there is a TON of market saturation in the writing about life in Italy realm. I admit I am 100 percent NOT your go-to gal when it comes to restaurant recommendations, great museums, or stellar wine cellar experiences.
My travel tips better cater to a more niche demographic. The solo female traveler, the student who just moved to Italy, the wine lover on a budget who spent all their money on their flight and would rather eat apericena at an awesome wine bar, than a full-fledged restaurant. These are my people.
So this list is the start of something I have been wanting to do for a while. As I have mentioned many times, watching reels and videos about WHAT TO DO IN ITALY continues to cause me physical pain (exaggerating, but you get it). It especially stings when I go to the source profile and see that is in fact a “digital nomad” and not someone who spent years learning the nuances of the culture, language and food system. Ma, vabbè. If it gets them views and clicks - good for them - that’s the goal, right? Well, that’s not my goal. I just like sharing cool places, with cool women who have the same interests about food, wine and beer. And I know for a fact that there are a few of you on here so I hope these places bring you joy on your next layover! Trainover? We can workshop it.
BOLOGNA
Not my favorite city right off the bat, but it has grew on me. In Rome, it seemed like every apartment had a terrace with green plants growing (albiet often untamed). In Bologna, there were porticoes and lots of them. Overwhelming at first, I felt as though they were blocking the sunshine, until it started to rain and I realized how useful they were for daily life. It’s also a great hub city for me to take a regional train into the heart of Emilia-Romagna, my new fav wine region.
Beer
Zapap Pratello - awesome pizza and beer spot, very casual atmosphere. I honestly think it was top 3 best pizzas I had while in Italy.
14 minute bus - 24 minute walk (from the train station)
Il Punto - great beer hall, real deal Italian craft beer, hot French fries. Plus it’s just a great spot to sit and chill, drink in peace and charge your phone while you watch everyone come in for a pint after work.
16 minute bus - 24 minute walk
Wine
Enoteca AL RISANAMENTO - baller wine bar, a little pricey, but had delicious pasta ceci on the menu, plus a very nice bathroom.
12 minute bus - 24 minute walk
Slow Wine Fair - if you every wondered how I find wine producers to eventually go visit, this is one of the fairs I attend. It was daunting at first to one the youngest, and more green people there, but it’s such an optimal place to try a ton of wines and meet winemakers all in one afternoon. Not sure why more wine people in the states don’t plan their trips to Italy around these wine events. This is way more approachable that VinItaly, secondo me.
28 minute bus - 40 minute walk
Coffee
Forno Brisa Spaccio e Lab - consistantly great coffee, pastries and bread. Those who are are not embarrassed can to take a cappucino to-go. I always grab a fat slice of focaccia pugliese for the train, too.
5 minute walk
MODENA
I don’t know but this city snuck up on me. I felt calm the moment I arrived at the train station. Maybe it’s because there were bikes parked everywhere, and no cars honking at each other. Maybe it was because I found the perfect coffee shop to eat lunch at while every other place was closed, and it was a giant salad no less. TIP: do not visit Modena on Monday-Tuesday-Wednesday, but do visit the wine shop I mention below.
Beer
FM23 Beer Bar à Vin & Comfort Food - craft beer, natural wine. I had a delicious bowl of Tortellini alla panna and a delicious glass of sparkling Otrugo from some cool winemaker. Even for being a solo female traveler the guys working there were super nice and respectful.
12 minute bus - 19 minute walk
Wine
Nuova Drogheria | Vini, formaggi, salumi e tanto altro - love, love this wine shop. I feel like I have seen it grow throughout the years, everytime I visit there are more offerings. They even have a great selection of craft beer stored in the fridge! (this is key for craft). Plus a prepared food section available for take-away.
12 minute bus - 27 minute walk
Coffee
Parì - Caffè con Cucina - I had the tastiest, buttery(est) brioche here, and because I had just gotten off the train, I need a Big Girl breakfast so I ordered scrambled eggs and toast with jam.
14 minute bus - 19 minute walk
+ Panino
WAP! Modena - hearty sandwich shop right next door, stange hours but could be great before you catch a late night train.
12 minute bus - 19 minute walk
VERONA
I had no expectations for this city. TBH it was a pit stop for me en route to a winery in Valpolicella. You can read all my experience picking grapes for Amarone below!
I remember the streets being clean and polished and there was an actual bike lane from the train station to the center. I should have brought my bike more places. Out of all the cities in Italy I have visited, I have to admit that I had some of my worst food experiences here. NOT the places I listed below, obviously. In fact the wine spot I mention is one of my best meals!
Beer
Santa Maria Craft Pub - the ultimate craft beer, with long tables for groups, and cute tables by the window. If I lived in Verona, I would probably be there for a pint everyday.
23 minute bus - 33 minute walk
Wine
Maddalene vino naturale e piccola cucina - a wine bar vibe to emulate if I ever open my own place, great cicchetti options, plus awesome service, the server came over with a few different wines and walked me through their differences since I ordered a wine with a grape I had never heard of. You know why this meal was was perfect though? Because the food was great when I first ordered it, a hot steaming plate of this cheesy potato dish with perfectly soft bread, and it was even better when I ate as a leftover sandwich in bed, at the hostel.
21 minute bus - 46 minute walk
Osteria La Mandorla - the chillest place, there may be a few older men to shuffle around, but that means it’s been around a while and they had substantial snacks that I have called aperidinner a few times.
15 minute bus - 23 minute walk
Coffee
Garage Coffee Bros. - Flagship Store - honestly haven’t been here yet, only found out about it a few months ago, but I will absolutely walk 20 minutes to take a coffee from a roastery rather than the train station. Plus, in my experience the price difference is like less than 50 cents.
18 minute bus - 19 minute walk
+ Panino
La Figaccia - loaded sandwich with regional ingredients. It felt a little hardcore inside, because a lot of the sandwhiches were made with crudo, but they had two vegetarian options which I was all about.
15 minute bus - 23 minute walk
What do y’all think? For my ladies in Italy, have you been to any of these places before? Am I super late to the party? In any case, these places made my long train travel days so much better, and the next time I am in one of these cities (maybe Spring to attend the wine festies?) I will be treating myself to a beer while waiting for the train.
PS: What’s your train ride routine? Mine is watching a few episodes of The Office from my phone. Three episodes later, I am halfway home.
Ciao ragazzi & and thanks for reading my wild thoughts.
- Tana